How to Install

Installation is easy. Have these tools ready and work through the steps in order.

Tools

Most of it is probably already in your truck.

Hammer

Drill / screw gun

1/16" & 3/16" bits

#2 Phillips driver

Double-sided tape

Pilot hole locator

Door pull locator

Wood glue

Damp cloth & soapy water

Paper towels

Prefer paper? Printable instructions:English Español

Prep, paint, then doors, fronts and pulls. Then clean up. You're done.

Keep track of which drawer box goes where.

Fill holes in the front and sides of the cabinets with wood filler.
Sand every area you'll paint. The old surface needs to be clean and dull, not shiny, so the paint sticks.

Your order ships packed and labeled by carton. The paint is in carton #1.
Brush, spray or roll the outside of the old cabinets, whichever you're most comfortable with. Let the last coat dry fully before installing doors and fronts.

Plan on at least 24 hours of dry time.

Set the doors on a clean, hard surface and tap the hinges into the doors with a hammer until they sit flush.

Never insert hinges on a soft surface like carpet. It can damage the doors.

Which type of cabinet do you have?

Drill the top hinge pilot holes for the hinge screws using the Framed Cabinet Pilot Hole Locator. If there's a wall, start there so every door lines up.
Secure the top hinge first with the screws from the bag labeled "Screw Hinges to Cabinet". Once the door is positioned, screw in the lower hinge. Put rubber bumpers on the door corners opposite the hinges.
Adjust the hinges so the doors sit flush against the cabinet. Adjustments move doors in and out and left and right. For up and down, loosen the hinge on the cabinet and slide it.

Drill the top hinge plate pilot holes using the Frameless Cabinet Pilot Hole Locator. If there's a wall, start there.
Secure the top hinge plate first with the screws labeled "Front Screws For Frameless Hinge Plates". Attach the bottom plates to the hinges on the door.
Clip the top hinge to the top plate. Once the door is positioned, screw in the lower plate. Add rubber bumpers to the door corners opposite the hinges.
Adjust the hinges to align the doors, the same way as framed cabinets.
Don't skip this one: find the bag labeled "Screws for Back Hole of Frameless Hinge Plates" and put one screw at the back of each plate. They hold the hinges long term. Without them, doors can come loose.
Install any tilt-outs or hamper fronts.

Drill false front pilot holes using the Framed or Frameless Cabinet Pilot Hole Locator, for the false front posts.
Secure each post with a Phillips screwdriver and the larger #8x1" screw supplied. A manual driver works best here.
Stick double-sided tape to the flat side of both false front clips and slide them onto the posts. Put bumpers behind the four corners of the false front.
Press the false front firmly against the clips, then pull it straight off. The clips stay on the front. Secure the clips with the #6x5/8" screws supplied.
Clip the false front back in place.

With a 3/16" bit, drill holes in the drawer box so you can screw it to the drawer front. Aim for the thickest part of the front, not the center panel.
Put mounting tape on the back of the drawer front and peel the backer.
Set the drawer box in the cabinet without the front attached.
Line the front up with the surrounding doors and drawers, press the box firmly against it, then pull the drawer out. The tape holds the front in place.
Screw the front to the box with the washer-head screws supplied.
Slide the drawer back in.

Doors: use the 3/16" bit and the pull locator supplied. Hold the locator tight over the door corner and drill through it. Watch your hand placement.
Drawer fronts: drill through the drawer box at the pilot holes in the front, then attach the hardware with the 1 1/4" screws supplied.

Give us a call at 704-390-7378. We're happy to help.